Tapestry Crochet Goose Potholder – Free Pattern

The Tapestry Crochet Goose Potholder is the second potholder I designed for my Farmhouse Collection. All the potholders in this collection share a similar design and have one different farmhouse animal.

Being a fan of rustic kitchens, my aim here is to design warm and cozy-looking potholders which at the same time are something you’ll actually want to use in the kitchen.

Farmhouse Collection - Tapestry Crochet Potholder Patterns - Raffamusa Designs

No Holes in my Potholder!

My keyword for a crochet potholder is functionality!

Sure, it has to look good, but you also do not want to get burned while you’re busy handling hot pans and pots. This is why I designed the Crochet Goose Potholder without any holes whatsoever!

In other words, I created a very compact texture that allows you to use the potholder without having to fold it a thousand times just not get burned. At the same time, the thickness of the potholder is not that much to make you feel like a dodo trying to hold a hot pot.

And I could achieve all this by crocheting my Goose Potholder in tapestry crochet.

Tapestry Crochet

In tapestry crochet, you carry all the colors that you need for a row and you just crochet the unused colors inside of the stitches that you are making with the current color.

So, tapestry crochet has the compactness of single crochet with some extra thickness due to the extra yarn carried inside. This provides the best solution to my need for a compact and functional potholder.

If you would like to read more about how to change color in tapestry crochet, you can take a look at this free tutorial on the blog. The tutorial also includes a little trick for a better color change when working on the wrong side!

The Yarn of Choice for Potholders

As I already mentioned in the Rooster Potholder post, synthetic yarns are not suitable for potholders because they might melt with the high temperatures. The best yarn to use for potholders is either wool (best if felted) or cotton.

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AD-FREE DOWNLOADABLE PATTERN

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Materials

– 3.0-mm (D-3 USA, 11 UK) Crochet Hook
– Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in two contrasting colors. I will refer to them as color 1 (CC1) and color 2 (CC2).
– Tapestry Needle

Yardage

  • CC1: 56.25 m/61.7 yds
  • CC2: 35m/38.4 yds

Size

The finished potholder measures 6.7” (17 cm) by 7.3” (18.5 cm).

Gauge

28 sc for 26 rows in 4” (10 cm) worked in tapestry crochet.

Crochet Abbreviations (US Terms)

Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
RS – Right Side
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
St – Stitch
WS – Wrong Side
Yo – Yarn Over

Pattern Notes

  • (…) – Repeat the instruction within brackets for the indicated number of times.
  • If the pattern says “sc 5”, it means that you have to make one single crochet in each of the next 5 stitches.
  • At the end of each row, you turn your work to crochet the next series of sts.
  • The starting ch 1 DOES count as your first stitch and is always made with the main color.
  • The right side (RS) is determined after row 3, which is crocheted on the right side.
  • All uneven rows are crocheted with the right side up, while the even-numbered rows are crocheted on the wrong side.
  • Throughout the pattern with the exception of the border, the stitch count is always 45 sts.
  • The pattern is written in two sections. The Potholder is worked in rows, then the Border is worked in rounds.

Potholder

(CC1) Ch 46.
Row 1 (RS). Sc in the second st from your hook and in each st across, turn.

Row 2 (WS). Ch 1 (counts as a st here and in the rest of the pattern), sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3. Ch 1 and start carrying your contrasting color (CC2) yarn inside your sts. (CC1) sc 1, [(CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 4] eight times, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 4. (CC2) Ch 1, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 33, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 1, turn.

Row 5. (CC2) Ch 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 33, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, turn.

Row 6. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 20, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 22, turn.

Row 7. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 19, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 19, turn.

Row 8. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 17, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 12, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 9. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 12, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 20, turn.

Row 10. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 18, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 14, turn.

Row 11. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 18, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 19.

Row 12. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 18, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 19, turn.

Row 13. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 15, (CC2) sc 9, (CC1) sc 15, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 14. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 16, (CC2) sc 11, (CC1) sc 17, turn.

Row 15. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 15, (CC2) sc 13, (CC1) sc 16, turn.

Row 16. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 14, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 15, turn.

Row 17. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 13, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 4, (CC1) sc 14, turn.

Row 18. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 4, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 19. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 16, (CC1) sc 11, turn.

Row 20. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 24, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 21. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 21, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 22. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 14, (CC2) sc 18, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 23. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 17, (CC1) sc 13, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 24. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 18, (CC2) sc 13, (CC1) sc 13, turn.

Row 25. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 12, (CC2) sc 10, (CC1) sc 22, turn.

Row 26. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 24, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 13, turn.

Row 27. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 13, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 26, turn.

Row 28. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 23, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 29. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 14, (CC2) sc 4, (CC1) sc 26, turn.

Row 30. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 25, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 16, turn.

Row 31. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 15, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 26, turn.

Row 32. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 25, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 17, turn.

Row 33. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 14, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 22, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 34. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 24, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 17, turn.

Row 35. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 16, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 25, turn.

Row 36. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 23, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 16, turn.

Row 37. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 10, (CC1) sc 24, turn.

Row 38. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 21, (CC2) sc 9, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 39. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 13, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 25, turn.

Row 40. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 24, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 14, turn.

Row 41. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 37, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 3, turn.

Row 42. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 35, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 43. Ch 1 (CC2), (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 1, ((CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 4) six times, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 1, turn.

Row 44. Ch 1 (CC2), (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 33, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, turn.

Row 45. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 44.

Do not tie off.

Tapestry Crochet Goose Potholder - Free Pattern - Raffamusa Designs

Border

Round 1. For the hanging loop, (CC1) ch 20 and sl st into the last st of row 45.
Start crocheting the simple shells border on the top side of the potholder. (Sk 2 sts and dc 5 into the next st. Sk 1 and sl st into the next st) nine times. The ninth shell should be closed on the last st of the top side. Continue crocheting shells on the other three sides.
Once you are back at the hanging loop, crochet 25 sc inside the loop and sl st into the last st of row 45.
Tie off. Weave in ends.

Your Tapestry Crochet Goose Potholder is ready!

I hope you liked this pattern and I’d love to see your version of it! Please, share it on Facebook or Instagram using the hashtag #raffamusadesigns

Alternative Border Ideas

Alternatively, you can make a simple sc border as the one I made for the Rooster Potholder, or choose a border from one of the other Farmhouse potholders!

Take a look at the other potholders of the Farmhouse Collection!

4 thoughts on “Tapestry Crochet Goose Potholder – Free Pattern”

  1. I cannot get my 45 sc to be 8 inches wide. Using the the right kind of yarn and needle. Do not know what I am doing wrong.

    Reply
    • Hi Elaine, I recently updated the pattern because I had originally listed a wrong yarn weight, so I hope you are using the latest update of the pattern. The correct yarn to use is something around 15 wpi. Since DK, Light 3, Fingering and so on vary a lot depending on the reference you use, I think the easiest way is to actually check for yourself by wrapping it around a pen or a hook and counting the number of turns in 1 inch. I hope this makes sense. In case you have problems, feel free to contact me via e-mail at [email protected] 🙂

      Reply

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