Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder

I already knew that I have a thing for potholders but now, I think I am seriously in love with this Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder.

Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder - Raffamusa Designs

When I started crocheting this, it was not meant to be a potholder. I just wanted to use a different kind of yarn to test one stitch pattern that I created for one of my prehistoric, never-ending work-in-progress.

The very neglected work in progress that I am referring to is a Tunisian crochet sweater for my boyfriend. I really like the sweater design and everything but I got a bit stuck with the neckline, and the rest is history.

Anyway, the stitch pattern that I came up with is a very simple combination of Tunisian simple stitch and Tunisian cross stitch. The result is a sort of rhombic texture, very simple but quite elegant.

I am not sure that this is a unique and new stitch pattern, so I apologize in case someone already published something similar. Nevertheless, playing around with this stitch resulted in this cute Tresca potholder, and I thought it was worth sharing it.

Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder - Raffamusa Designs

What does Tresca Mean?

While I was really thinking very hard about how to name this potholder, I took a quick break and baked some cookies. I guess that’s the best thing to do when your ideas are a deep, grey fog of nothing.

So, I baked these biscuits, the ones in the picture, that I have always loved since my childhood. Back home, you can find them in any bakery and also at supermarkets. They’re very light and perfect for breakfast, or really any moment of the day. And guess what, they happen to be called Biscotti della Tresca, which means biscuits of the harvest in my dialect.

And there you go, a name found for my potholder.

If you’d like to bake these biscuits yourself, here’s the link to the recipe that I followed. It is in Italian, but with Google Translate, it shouldn’t be a problem.

What is the Best Yarn for Potholders?

The best yarn choice for potholders is either cotton or wool, best if felted. Synthetic yarns are a definite NO as they might melt with high temperatures.


This potholder is made by joining two identical Tunisian crochet squares. This way you’ll get a double-thick potholder, which is perfect to handle hot pots and pans in the kitchen.

Find more crochet potholder patterns here on the blog…

Add this project to your Ravelry queue HERE, or Pin it for later to your favorite crochet board on Pinterest using this pin!

Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder - Free Pattern - Raffamusa Designs

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The crochet pattern of the Tresca Potholder is available as an ad-free PDF in my Ravelry and LoveCrafts stores!

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Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder - Raffamusa Designs


  • 5.5-mm (I/9 US, 5 UK) Tunisian Crochet Hook.
  • Your hook has to be long enough to accommodate the entire potholder, so at least 5.5″ (14 cm).
  • 5.0-mm (H/8 US, 6 UK) Crochet Hook
  • DK cotton yarn (3, Light). I used a total of 24 g of yarn.
  • Tapestry Needle


The finished Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder is a square with a side of approximately 5.5″ (14 cm).

Crochet Abbreviations (US Terms)

Ch – Chain
Return – Standard Tunisian Return
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
St – Stitch
Tcs – Tunisian Cross Stitch
Trs – Tunisian Reverse Stitch
Tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch
Yo – Yarn Over

Special Stitches

Foundation Row
Find a step-by-step tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian foundation row HERE.

Standard Tunisian Return (Return)
Yo, pull through the first loop on your hook, *yo, pull through two loops*. Repeat in between * for all the loops until you will only have one remaining loop on your hook.

Tunisian Reverse Stitch (Trs)
For step-by-step instructions, you can check out the tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian reverse stitch HERE.

Tunisian Cross Stitch (Tcs)
Find a step-by-step tutorial on how to crochet the Tunisian cross stitch HERE.


21 sts for 19 rows worked in Tcs in 4″ (10 cm).


  • Always skip the very first st.
  • The first stitch is included in the stitch count.
  • The stitch count is 28 sts throughout the potholder.
  • The last stitch is worked under both loops of the final ch from the previous row.
  • The instructions below only describe the forward pass.
  • The return pass is always a Standard Tunisian Return.
Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder in green - Raffamusa Designs

Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder

(Make two)

With your 5.5-mm Tunisian crochet hook, start a foundation row of 28 sts.

Row 1-2. Trs 27, last st.

Row 3. Trs 3, tss 22, trs 2, last st.
Row 4. Trs 3, 1 tss, *tcs over the next two sts. Repeat from * other 9 times, tss 1, trs 2, last st.
Row 5. Repeat row 3.
Row 6. Trs 3, *tcs over the next two sts. Repeat from * other 10 times, trs 2, last st.

Row 7-22. Repeat rows 3-6 other four times.
Row 23. Repeat row 3 once more.
Row 24. Trs 27, last st.

Row 25. Bind off by sl st as for trs. So, do the same as for a regular trs but sl st instead of leaving the hook on your hook.

Fasten off.

Color Options

If you want to reproduce the same colorwork as the one I did on one side of my Tresca potholder, you’ll have to have some patience with changing yarn.

What I did was crochet the forward pass of sts 4 to 25 in rows 3 to 23 using a contrasting color. I crocheted all return passes with the yarn in my main color.

Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder - Raffamusa Designs

Since this potholder is not worked in the round, this means that you’ll have to cut the yarn in the main color after every st 3 on each row.
In other words, join the yarn in the contrasting color just before st 4, work your sts up to st 25, cut the contrasting yarn, and join the main color again. Now, work up the last three sts, make the return pass and the first three sts of the next row, and start all over again with the cutting.

The end result is a pretty big mess of tails, as you can see in the picture below. However, since nobody is ever going to see the back of this panel, all I did was to knot the tails on the same yarn-changing point on each row.

I know that knotting yarn is not a proper thing to do, but at the same time, I did not want to spend my day weaving in ends. So, I just went for it and knotted all those ends a couple of times to make sure that they were secure enough.

Then, I trimmed the ends a little bit and hid them inside of my potholder!

Colorwork and Assembly of the Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder

If you have any suggestions on how to change colors in a more efficient way, please, do drop a comment below. I’d appreciate it so much.


Pair the two squares you just made with the wrong sides facing each other. So, right side out!

Make sure to place the panels in the same orientation. For example, both of the panels with the foundation row down. This way you are sure that the stitch count is the same on each side.

With your 5.0-mm crochet hook, attach your yarn in any st on one of the two panels. Join the corresponding sts on each of the panels by loosely slip stitching all around.

Join the round with a sl st into the first st, and fasten off.

Hanging Loop

Cut three strands of yarn of approximately 20” (50 cm) and align them together.

With your 5.0-mm crochet hook, join the three strands of yarn in one of the corners, ch 12 (or more if you prefer) and sl st back into the same corner where you joined your yarn. Fasten off.

Weave in all your ends.

Your Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder is now ready!

I hope you enjoyed crocheting the Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder. Please, do not hesitate to contact me if you need any help or support. I am looking forward to seeing all your beautiful makes on Facebook and Instagram!

Find more crochet ideas for your home and kitchen here on the blog…

23 thoughts on “Tunisian Crochet Tresca Potholder”

  1. Complimenti bella ! This is a really beautiful stitch.
    I have some muticoloured cotton yarn lying about, so I’m going to give that a go – certainly don’t have patience with all those ends, alas !

    • Thank you, Margaret! I can tell you that if the cotton is quite “twisted”, I mean, not super fluffy, the texture will be more visible even with just one color. In my case, the milk cotton that I used was not highlighting the texture that much. But for example the Donegal wool that I’m using for the boyfriend’s sweater looks very good in this stitch!

  2. Beautiful as always! I loled at “prehistoric, never-ending work-in-progress”. That kind of describes my works too. I love milk cotton. I have this dishcloth I made from it over a year ago. It hasn’t faded.

  3. Since you are making 2 of the potholders and stitching them together when finished, why cut the different colors of yarn? The project is smallish and you could just carry the unused color until it is needed again. This way nothing has to be cut, no mass of cut ends, just carried yarn that will not show from the front as there is another potholder covering the carried yarn.

    • Hi Colette,
      Thank you so much for your comment! That’s a very great suggestion and the smartest way to go about this color change problem! I’ll definitely try it and update the post with your suggestion if you are ok with it 🙂

  4. Hi
    I’m a little confused
    Row 3 after I skip 1st stitch, if I did 3trs followed by 22tss, I do not have enough left to do 3 Ted, 1 tss and last stitch
    Please help

    • Hi,
      When I say to skip the first st, what I mean is that you should not make a stitch in the very first vertical bar from the previous row because for that vertical bar you already have one loop/stitch on your hook. This is obvious if you have experience with Tunisian crochet and I see that “skip the first st” might be confusing. I guess I should rephrase it differently…
      Anyhow, when you start crocheting row 3, the first 3 Trs include the loop that is already on your hook and 2 more Trs. Then, there are the cross sts over the next 22 sts, and the last 3 Trs, for a total of 28 loops on your hook.
      I hope this helped a bit? Otherwise feel free to send me an e-mail 🙂

  5. Hello! Looking forward to making this pattern. I was just curious as to the pattern for the border? I did not see directions for the one shown but would love to use it.


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