Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder

Today, I would like to share with you the pattern of my Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder. This is my latest addition to the Farmhouse Collection.

Farmhouse Collection

If you have been following the blog, you might be familiar with the potholders of the Farmhouse Collection.

It all started with my first design of the Rooster Potholder. After the rooster, I kept adding more and more designs so that the collection has now seven different potholders.

If you would like to see all the designs of the Farmhouse Collection, you can take a look at this article where that you can get to read all about the Collection.

Tapestry Crochet

Tapestry crochet is great for potholders because it creates a very compact texture. So, no holes at all, which makes the potholder very functional in the kitchen.

When working in tapestry crochet, there are a couple of things to keep in mind:

  1. It is very important to maintain a constant tension otherwise your work will be somehow deformed.
  2. You need to know how to change colors smoothly.

If you need help, I prepared a free tutorial on the blog on how to change colors in tapestry crochet. The tutorial also includes a little trick for a better color change when working on the wrong side!

Pin the free pattern of the Tapestry crochet horse potholder for later!

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Materials

– 3.0-mm (D-3 USA, 11 UK) Crochet Hook
– Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in two contrasting colors. I will refer to them as color 1 (CC1) and color 2 (CC2).
– Tapestry Needle

YARDAGE

  • CC1: 56.25 m/61.7 yds
  • CC2: 35m/38.4 yds

SIZE

The finished potholder measures 6.7” (17 cm) by 7.3” (18.5 cm)

GAUGE

28 sc for 26 rows in 4” (10 cm) worked in tapestry crochet.

Crochet abbreviations (US Terms)

Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
St – Stitch
Tr – Treble Crochet
Yo – Yarn Over

Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder - Free Crochet Pattern - Raffamusa Designs

PATTERN NOTES

  • (…) – Repeat the instruction within brackets for the indicated number of times.
  • If the pattern says “sc 5”, it means that you have to make one single crochet in each of the next 5 stitches.
  • At the end of each row, you turn your work to crochet the next series of sts.
  • The starting ch 1 DOES count as your first stitch and is always made with the main color.
  • All uneven rows are crocheted on the right side (RS), while the odd-numbered rows are crocheted on the wrong side (WS).
  • Throughout the pattern with the exception of the border, the stitch count is always 45 sts.
  • The pattern is written in two sections. The Potholder is worked in rows, then the Border is worked in rounds.

Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder – Pattern

(CC1) Ch 46.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second st from your hook and in each st across, turn. (45 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1 (counts as a st here and in the rest of the pattern, so skip the first sc!), sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3. Ch 1 and start carrying your contrasting color (CC2) yarn inside your sts. (CC1) sc 1, [(CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 4] eight times, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 4-5. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 44, turn.

Row 6. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 31, turn.

Row 7. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 14, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 8. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 12, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 9. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 15, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 11, turn.

Row 10. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 16, turn.

Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder - Free Crochet Pattern - Raffamusa Designs

Row 11. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 10, turn.

Row 12. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 11, turn.

Row 13. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 7, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 14. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 9, turn.

Row 15. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 7, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 7, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 4, (CC1) sc 5, turn.

Row 16. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 8, turn.

Row 17. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 8, turn.

Row 18. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 17, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 19. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 23, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 8, turn.

Row 20. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 26, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 21. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 12, (CC2) sc 21, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 7, turn.

Row 22. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 22, (CC1) sc 13, turn.

Row 23. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 9, (CC2) sc 23, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 24. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 23, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 25. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 22, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 4, (CC1) sc 6, turn.

Row 26. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 27, (CC1) sc 12, turn.

Row 27. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 11, (CC2) sc 26, (CC1) sc 7, turn.

Row 28. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 22, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 29. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 10, (CC2) sc 10, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 5, (CC1) sc 13, turn.

Row 30. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 24, (CC2) sc 9, (CC1) sc 11, turn.

Row 31. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 4, (CC2) sc 3, (CC1) sc 3, (CC2) sc 8, (CC1) sc 26, turn.

Row 32. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 26, (CC2) sc 13, (CC1) sc 5, turn.

Row 33. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 12, (CC1) sc 25, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 34. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 27, (CC2) sc 11, (CC1) sc 6, turn.

Row 35. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 6, (CC2) sc 9, (CC1) sc 29, turn.

Row 36. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 29, (CC2) sc 9, (CC1) sc 6, turn.

Row 37. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 7, (CC2) sc 7, (CC1) sc 30, turn.

Row 38. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 28, (CC2) sc 6, (CC1) sc 5, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 39. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 8, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 1, (CC2) sc 2, (CC1) sc 31, turn.

Row 40. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 31, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 9, turn.

Row 41-42. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 44, turn.

Row 43. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 1, [(CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 4] eight times, (CC2) sc 1, (CC1) sc 2, turn.

Row 44-45. Ch 1, (CC1) sc 44, turn.

Border

After row 45, both CC1 and CC2 are at the left, top corner of your potholder.

Round 1 (RS). With CC1, place 45 sc on each side of the potholder starting from the left side, then the bottom, right side, and top. At the corners, sc 1 in the last st of the side, ch 1, and sc in the first st of the next side.

Round 1. With S, sc homogeneously all around the crocheted potholder. At the corners, sc 1 in the last st of the side, ch 1, and sc in the first st of the next side. You should have 45 sts on each side and 1 ch in each one of the corners. Join the round with a sl st into the first st. (45 sts on each side and 1 ch at the corners).

Round 2 (RS). With CC1, sc in the first st of the left side, (sk 1, hdc into the next st. Ch 2 and hdc 3 in the hole formed between the first sc and the post of the hdc. Sc into the next st) 14 times.

How to crochet the border - Step-byStep Tutorial - Raffamusa Designs

At the corner, [sc 1, ch 1, sc 1] all in the ch-1 spacing from the previous round. Sc 45 on the bottom side.

On the right side, sc 1, and make the same 14 repeats as for the left side.
At the top, right corner, sl st into the ch-1 space, ch 20, and sl st back into the same ch. Turn your work and sc 25 inside the loop you just created. Sl st back into the same ch-1 space, and turn your work.

Complete the border with 45 sc on the top side of the potholder. Join the round with a sl st.

Fasten off and weave in all your ends.

Your Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder is ready!

I hope you enjoyed crocheting this pattern. Please, do not hesitate to contact me if you need any help or support. I am looking forward to seeing all your beautiful makes on Facebook and Instagram!

Don't forget to Pin the Free pattern of the Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder to your favorite Pinterest board.

7 thoughts on “Tapestry Crochet Horse Potholder”

    • Thank you so much 🤗 I’m so glad the horse came out fine because it was a request I got from a reader and I was sooo afraid it was going to turn out kind of mmmh. The truck is going to come soon but I’ll share it as a guest post on RaeLynn’s blog, Itchin’ for some Stitchin’ 😊 but I’ll try to post something about it so you won’t miss it!

      Reply
  1. I hope u don’t mind but I went on ur blog and saved the whole collection on my Pinterest site so I can do the whole collection later for my daughter in-law as she likes country and this will fit the bill. Thanks

    Reply
    • Hi Elisabeth, the wrong side of a tapestry crochet work is basically the one where you keep your non-used color when turning row. In other words, when you turn your work, you’ll mostly be crocheting with the background color (for example, in the case of the horse, grey). You’ll still need to carry your secondary color (white) inside your stitches. To do so, you’ll have to pass it either to the back or to the front of the new row. In order to have a nice and neat project, you’ll always pass the secondary color on the same side, which we will call the “wrong side”.
      I hope this helped somehow…In any case, I’ll prepare a more detailed tutorial on this, and I hope I’ll get it done soon.
      Anyhow, don’t hesitate to send me an e-mail if you need more help 🙂

      Reply

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